Enlightening Pilgrimage of Indian Heritage

A Wish That Came Through

(From the Travelogues of Mathew D. Kunnappilly)

SARNATH

Thursday, September 28th.

In the morning when we went out at 7 AM the old man was waiting. He had fresh clean cloths on. He looked rested and very refreshed.

He took us to the bus stand from where we could take the bus to Sarnath. I told him that we would be back between 1.30 and 2.00PM. He showed me a place where he would be waiting for us. When I tried to pay him, he said that I could pay him after he takes us to the railway station in the evening. But I insisted on paying and he took the money.

We took the bus, in fact a 10-passenger van they call mini-bus. Sarnath is only 10 km (About 7 miles) from Varanasi. We reached there at 8.15AM. The ruins of Sarnath are in a fenced enclosure. The admission is by ticket. The gate opens at 9. The Museum opens only at 10.

As soon as we got down from the bus a man came up and asked if we need a guide. I said, no. Then he said, "only 5 rupees, sir" " For how long?" I asked. He replied, "until you finished seeing the place" "That may take 2-3 hours," I said. " Still 5 rupees. Sir" he replied. I told him that I do not want any fight or arguments at the end. "Just 5 rupees" he repeated. (How desperate they must be?) I said "Fine. Agreed" (What is there to bargain on five rupees.) He sent a young boy of 15 or 16 with us.

I told the boy that we would like to have some breakfast before going in. He took as to a small restaurant. There were only a few places. This was the only place opened yet. We went in. The cook was only cleaning the kitchen (kitchen is in an open area) and getting organized. I ordered 3 breakfast. He gave me a small menu. The only item in it I could understand was Omelet. So I ordered 3 with coffee. I saw the cook sending a boy to an adjoin room. A young man came out, got on a motorcycle and left. Then I knew they were out of eggs. The cook started cutting onion and other ingredients for the omelet.

By then I knew that it was going to be a little while for breakfast to be served. So I decided to find few things in advance from the guide, only to discover that he does not speak a word of English. So, with some outside help, I told him that I do not understand Hindi, therefore, I need a guide who speaks English. He went out and came back with a middle-aged man who spoke some English, to replace him. I asked the man if he knew the terms and conditions. He said, "Yes, 5 rupees"

The boy knew I had ordered breakfast for him also. But he got up to leave. I asked him to wait until he had the breakfast. He was happy and waited. I ordered one more breakfast. By this time the young man returned with eggs and milk.

After a while we were served the omelet and bread, water to drink. I just happened to glance the menu to discover a horrendous mistake I made. The omelet was 12 rupees a piece. The coffee was 10 rupees each. Ordering coffee was the slip of my tongue. I did not want coffee, preferred tea. Tea is only 3 rupees each. In North India people drink tea more than coffee. Tea and coffee taste so better they’re than in the south because of the difference in preparing it. But they serve only 2 ounces only. In the south people drink coffee and tea to quench the thirst. In the north they serve hot or cold water with food. When finished eating they serve tea or coffee. I tried to change to tea but by then the cook had already put coffee in the milk.

After breakfast the boy left. I gave him the 5 rupees. 

Then we went to see the ruins. The excavated area is in about 50 acres. There are fences all around the area.

The first thing you notice is the 33.53 m. high "Dhamek Stupa", a huge, exquisitely and beautifully carved monument Ashoka built on the spot where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon. The upper part of this stupa is made of bricks, and the lower portion is made of stone. Above this base there are 8 niches. They are empty now but had Buddha images symbolizing the Eight-Fold Path of Buddha. (Those images are in the Museum now) This Stupa is practically undamaged and intact.

There are many structural remains of the buildings unearthed. Three of them are monasteries. One Monk to a room was the rule. " Two Monks, two minds, and less meditation" said Buddha.

On the remains of a Temple we could see the bricks and stone with writings from Ashoka’s time.

A few feet away from this Temple is the famous Ashoka Pillar. This was cut from a single solid rock 50 or so meter long. The Asoka Chakra was on top of it. On top of that was the Lion Capital. Those two items are removed and is kept in the Museum today. Unfortunately, the pillar is broke into 4 pieces. The three broken pieces are placed around the one standing on the ground. You can see the writings on it. A glass cage is placed around them. They are 25 hundred years old, exposed to the elements of the nature, and was buried under ground for centuries. Yet, there are no stains or discoloration. They look like polished just few weeks ago. The architects of the world are still trying to figure out the technique used to polish it.

One other surprising thing was their underground drainage system. It was built with stone and taking the sewer far away from the compound. They are better than the ones we have today.

Some book state that Buddha gave his first Sermon at the "Deer Park" That is true too. This was a Deer Park. Deer’s roamed freely and fearlessly because no one would kill them or harm them. However, today they are kept outside the fence. As soon as they see some one near the fence they would come running as if saying "Give me something good to eat" But there are signs asking people not to feed them. Some oblige. Some don’t. (I obliged)

From the ruins we went to the museum. I would classify The Archaeological Museum of Sarnath as one of the best in the world. It is kept well and the items are displayed nicely. All the important findings at the ruins are kept and displayed here. The STAR attraction is the Lion Capital. It is placed at the main entrance, in a glass cage. It is 4 Lions standing with their backs together, gazing at all four directions. They are beautiful, elegant, marvelous, and majestic. Two lions face the door. There are no noticeable damages on them. However, the two facing inside the room has damages in
their mouths. The workmanship of this is unbelievable. It looks like was polished just last week.

I shall not try to describe all the items in the museum. To really appreciate Sarnath and the museum, you have to see it. No amount of description, or photography or even the IMAX camera can capture and present the real beauty of it, just, as these cannot be done with Grand Canyon.

There are Temples by the Governments of China, Burma, Tibet, Thailand, Korea, and Japan. By this time I had seen enough Temples and was not interested in going into any except one where I thought that I might be able to buy some books. But they did not have many selections in English.

Had some lunch and then returned to Varanasi, reaching there at 1.30 PM.

We looked for the old man and he was not there were he said he would be. We looked for him in that whole area but cannot find. Either he had a run and did not get back on time or the police chased him out of that place. We waited until 2.30. Then called another cycle rickshaw and went to our lodge. I felt good in having paid him in the morning or I had to feel that I belonged to that 95 % he was talking about the first day.

We were at the railway station by 7 PM; our train was to leave at 9.10 The bulletin board said that the train would be from Plat Form # 6. By 8.30 no train was on that plat form. I tried to find some one who speak English but I could not find any one there. At 8.45 I noticed two people, looked like father and son, walking by. I stopped them and asked if they speak English. The young man said yes. I told him of our problem. (They were uncle and nephew and the young man was a railway employee) He looked around and found the train waiting at Plat Form # 8. He said that there should be an announcement soon on the change of the plat form. I told them about my
experience at Lucknow. The older man said (They both speak English) " Let us not take any chance". They took us to plat form # 8. The lights in the train were not yet on. They found our compartment, came inside with us, and with a torch they found for us our seat. As we settled on our seats the announcement came over the PA of the change in the plat form number. At the same time the lights came on. I thank them profusely.

Our train left Varanasi at 9.10 PM sharp.

Next: - The Conclusion of the Journey