Enlightening Pilgrimage of Indian Heritage

A Wish That Came Through

(From the Travelogues of Mathew D. Kunnappilly)

AT RAJGIR

Tuesday, September 26.

At 4.30 AM the bus to Rajgir appeared in front of our lodge. We were waiting. The buss was already full. The bus conductor told me there were no seats. The lodge manager talked to him in Hindi. The contector asked Subash and me to get in. He made two seats for us by squeezing people together.

This was not an easy ride. The road was so bad before but the recent flood made it worst. It was full of potholes. Some of them so deep, many times, I thought the bus might tip over. Finally, I gave up my seat and stood. It was impossible to take it any more.

We reached Rajgir at 9.30 AM; a distance of only 83 km (About 52 miles) took 5 hours to cover. So you can imagine the road conditions. I was so happy when we reached Rajgir.

The present day Rajgir town is very small, may be a dozen buildings. First we had some breakfast. Then we tried to find a means to go around. There were only one or two auto rickshaws there. Through out North India they are trying to ban auto rickshaws because of air pollution. For two of us we did not need an auto rickshaw. Then the choice was between either a cycle rickshaw or a mule driven Tonga. (Uncovered cart or a cover-less wagon) I did not feel like siting in a man driven cycle rickshaw. So I opted for a Tonga. When I saw the driver, an emaciated old man, and the power (in this case) in front of the wheel, a sad looking small mule, I thought of giving up the whole idea. Then I thought if I do not hire them, they might not eat that day. After all, the poor ass was born to carry the burdens. There were not many tourists. So I hired them. For my luck, the old man was very nice and spoke enough English, up, down, this way, that way, temple, tree, wall, stone, like that.

I had never been in a Tonga pulled by a horse or by a mule. So this was a first for me. Before I climb on to it, let me introduce Rajgir to you.

I came here without knowing anything about this place. I never knew such place even existed. This is not to imply that I do know all the existing places. But this is a place that should not be unknown to any Indian. This is not a mythical place. It is an ancient, real, and historical place.

Rajgir had taken many different names over the centuries. It was Vasumati in Ramayana, Barhadrathapur in Mahabharata, Girivraja in the Puranas, and the other names were Kusagrapur and Rajagriha. The last one was the capital of Magadha Empire for centuries. Raja Bimbisara’s Royal Palace was at Rajagriha. This capital was famous through out India for its wealth and magnificence. It had 32 main gates with 64 minor ones. The prosperity of Rajagriha declined after building the city of Patliputra (Present day Patna). However, the fact that Ashoka built a Stupa and a pillar with elephant-capital, proves that it was well known in the third century BC.

This place is a walled in area, encircled on all sides by hills. Let me put it this way.

Imagine Phoenix, Glendale and Tempe. Then, leave South Mountain where it is. Remove all the mountains and hills, to the West up to the western border of Glendale, to the North up to Union Hills, to the East up to Pima Road. Now you have a plain, level ground. Now put 4 other mountains, the same height as South Mountain, in the West, North, and East, not in squire, but in sort of encircling fashion, without any gap between the mountains. Leave an open space between the Salt River up the Tempe Butt on South Mountain. That would be Rajgir.

The names of these mountains in Mahabharata were Vaibhara, Varaha, Vrishabha, Rishigiri, and Chaityaka. Today they are Vipulachal Hill, Ratnagiri Hill, Udaygiri Hill, Sawrangiri Hill, and Vaibhargiri Hill. All these hills are dotted with small Jainas Temples. Accesses to these Temples are through steps only, except at Ratnagiri. The Shanti Stupa, on Ratnagiri Hill, built by Fiji Guruji of Japan after the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki during the Second World War, to promote Buddhism, can be reached by cable cars. This is what Sidharta meant when he told me "You see Ropway" People go to Rajgir today mainly for a ride in one of these cable cars.

Buddha preached many years here. Lord Mahavira, the last of the Jaina Tirthankara passed 14 "rainy seasons" at Rajagriha.

I hope that I have established the historical importance of Rajgir.

We started our journey on the donkey wagon. About 100 or 150 feet from the town you will see the remnants of a Fort. Remember, I asked you to leave the space between the Salt River and Tempe But. This is that place. The Fort that built to enclose Rajgir was here. It was built with undressed stones set without any mortar. The wall was 15 to 18 ft. thick and 11 ft. high. The main gate was here. The present day road runs through that gate.

As you enter this Plato there is a Temple at the base of the first mountain you see to your right. We decided to go there. Young men were sitting on the walls on either side of the steps leading to the Temple. They started talking to us in Hindi. I applied my Hindi phrase "Hindi nahi malum" One young man asked "Coming from Gaya?" I said yes. "Want up?" he was pointing to the top of that mountain. I said no. "See Temple?" he asked again. I replied yes. By then few other young men were surrounding us. They were shouting at each other. Each one wants us to follow him. Finally, the man who talked to me said, " I am a priest here, follow me". And we did. The others quieted down. After climbing about 30 or 40 steps we came to this small Temple. Behind the temple were several faucets. He gave me a copper container and asked me to get water from one of them, and I did. He took that tumbler from me, then asked me to show my cupped palms. He poured that water into my palm. It was very warm. He asked me to wash my face and I did. Then he sprinkled water on my head and on my body. He asked me to take a bath in that water. I declined. I asked if that water was good to drink. He said yes and gave me a glass. I took water from the faucet and drank for I was very thirsty. This was the natural, hot mineral water piped down from a well on top of that hill. Many people climb up there and get the water directly from the well. He asked me if I want to do the Puja and again I declined. When I was ready to leave, he said "200 rupees". I asked "What for?" "For the service" was his reply. I told him that I will give him 200 rupees but he will have to take me back to Kerala. Finally, we settled it for 20 rupees.

I did not know what Subash was doing during this time. Another priest gave him "Service". He wants 500 rupees for his services. That was settled for another 10. Then we left. That was the last time I accepted "Service" from a "Priest".

We got back on the Tonga. Next stop was the jail where his son jailed the King. Only the foundation stones are left. The cows and sheep's were gracing in side. We passed through the remains of the monasteries were Buddha and Mahavira stayed. The same story. Only foundations left and cattle’s and sheep’s were eating the grass.

Next stop was at the Manasa Temple mentioned in Mahabharatha. This is in about 3 acres area. This is the only place I had seen protected. There is a stone wall surrounding it with chain links at the top. There is an Iron Gate. The place is kept well attended. The remains of many buildings can be seen. There are three items left from the original. One is a well. The second one is the stone tanks (3 in number) that kept milk, gee, and honey for the Yagum. Third one is the part of the Temple. This is cylindrical in shape. About 18 or 20 feet tall. It has a tin roof. The altar is at the basement. There is only a small opening to look down. There is only the natural light that is not sufficient to see anything. All that I had seen is a small white sheet covering something. On the back wall, about 10 feet from the ground, there was the image of Genesh. Everything is fallen off except the outline and his right foot from just above the ankle. It is amazing. Even without anyone telling, those who are familiar with Genesh and the way he hold his right foot, can tell that was the image of Genesh.

Now, I had seen what I wanted to see at Rajgir. I was ready to go back. But the old man would not let me. He kept on saying " See the bucket" I knew he was talking about the cable cars. I told him that I do not want to see it. But he kept on going. Now most people come to Rajgir to see just that. So how can he let me go without showing it? Finally, I gave it up.

Subash and I went inside the gate where they operate these cable cars. I told Subash if he wants he can go up and come down. It would take only 7 minutes go up and 7 minutes to come down, but he would not go without me. This was too much for me to do to please him.

We had some ice-cold drinks, went to the Tonga, and headed back to the town and the bus stand.

When we reached the entrance to Rajgir I noticed a wooded area. I asked the old man about it. " That, old, Raja Bimbisara Palace" the old man said. Suddenly I remembered. This was where MY MOST FAVORIT STORY of Lord Buddha had taken place.

One day Buddha was passing by Rajagriha (The book did not give the name of the place, said only "Near Raja Bimbisara’s Palace") when he came across a shepherd leading a flock of sheep’s. It did not appear to Buddha that the shepherd was leading them to a pastured ground. Therefore he asked the shepherd where was he leading the flock. The shepherd answered " Raja Bimbisara is conducting a Desha Yagum (A 100 day long sacrificial celebration) and these are the sacrificial lambs". There was a kid limping behind. Buddha lifted that kid, carried it on his shoulder, and followed the shepherd. Buddha was well known at that time in the area.

Raja Bimbisara met him at the gate and greeted him. Then he asked Buddha why he was carrying a kid on his shoulder. Buddha replied " I wish to give this poor creature little comfort before it falls under the butcher’s knife" Then he asked Raja Bimbisara " What sort of a God you expect to please with this blood bath?" Then he went onto ask the Raja " You say you believe, all things come from God (Brahma) If that is so, how can you believe the same God be will pleased to see some of his creatures cutting the throat of His other creatures?"

The result of these conversations was that Raja Bimbisara stopped the Yagum and banned the animal sacrifice in his kingdom.

Is there any wonder, Bimbisara’s grand son, Ashoka, had become the foremost proponent in history, of Buddha’s teachings?

When I realized that I was standing on the ground where history was made, not just reading or hearing about it, a tickling thrill ran up my spine. Had I missed this opportunity, I would have been eternally disappointed. Thanks to Sidharta.

I gave the old man double the money he asked for because he asked for too little. Then I gave him little more money and asked him to buy that day little extra food for his mule.

Then we left them and got on the bus and were on the way to Nalanda.

Next:- Nalanda